Friends don't lets friends place shit gear.

Friends don't lets friends place shit gear.

A while ago I was showing my friend who had never placed gear how to trad climb. Basic gear placements and simple personal anchor systems were all they really needed to know. He led a route that we had pre-placed some gear on, just as a dry run, while placing his own gear for practice.

While seconding up after them and cleaning I noticed more than a little of the gear he placed was about as good as four day old Chinese food.…not to be trusted, some was bomber but some was pure shite. It’s not that all of it was bad, just a lot of it could have been drastically improved with small changes, using an offset instead of a regular walnut, going on cam size up, super simple stuff really. For some reason I found it really hard to tell him that his gear placements needed improvement. He was all excited to get into trad and was buzzing after his first trad lead, and I felt it would be a dick move to knock him down a peg, almost like shouting “DAB” just as someone tops a boulder.

So I tried to play it cool

me: “nice lead man, …..some of that gear was a but iffy”

my friend: “how iffy?, scale of one to ten”

me: “….2…. maybe 3…”

my friend: “ that’s wank…”

me: “no… it’s wanktacular”

He laughed it off and said “friends don’t let friends place shit gear", now me and him trad together all the time, His gear is still a pile of balls, but the amount he runs it out it dosen’t really matter any way.

I'm probably taking this to far...c'teryx

I'm probably taking this to far...c'teryx

The Secret Language of Climbers

The Secret Language of Climbers

0