That extra 10% (not a shitty coupon code)
Years ago I watched a video of Leo Houlding climbing some monster route called “Savage Horse” somewhere in Scandinavia, a hard E grade that had some dodgy sky hooks protecting the crux.
In the video he was talking about how a particular section of the climb had a very tenuous crimp move that needed to be nailed first time, ie: there was no way to fluff the move and not take a winger…
and of course when going for the climb on lead he fluffed the move and started peeling away a fair few meters above the medley of shite skyhooks, but he didn’t take a winger he managed to pull it back, I recommend watching the video it’s mega spicy if nothing else.
It got me thinking about that extra 10% power we all get on lead, when we can’t or really don’t want to fall. Its only happened to me a few times.
It’s that extra 10% that makes your knees stop shaking and lets your feet zero in on that perfect smear you need, it makes nuts that were fiddly to place when abing the route jump into cracks and take on a bolt like aura, fingers that were greasier than a bucket of chicken seem to dry up and meld to pockets like old school fixed alien cams. It’s rare enough feeling for punters like me, but when it happens its a great feeling, I can only describe it as the same feeling of joy when you get two chocolate bars from a vending machine when you only paid for one.